14 November 2010

The new bimini

It really is too hot to sail all day in a Northern Rivers summer without some shade. I investigated getting one made to measure but baulked at the price. Then Peter rashly offered to install one for me if I bought an off the shelf model. We measured up carefully and I scoured websites for a reddish one that would fit.

The end result is splendid. John Woods came down to the BRSC specially to help me check if the boom would clear the bimini and it does perfectly.

 A huge thank you to Peter. It turned out (as often seems to be the case) a fiddly and rather time consuming job.

You may wonder why the photo of the U bolt on the bow of my boat. The story is that after sailing hard at the Bridge to Breakers regatta I found the cabin soaking wet. The U bolt had pulled slightly loose and was letting water in. The bolt looked fine to me until Peter pulled it out and it was like a honeycomb - electrolysis. Old age. As often seems to be the case it was not easy getting a bolt that was just right. Even Whitworths don't stock them. However I sourced one that was nearly right and Peter managed to modify it to make it fit tight. Peter also fashioned a splendid bush out of some super duper black plastic (look closely at the photo). Yet another fiddly maintenance task. Thanks again Peter.

PS from Peter
"You forgot to mention the O-rings, although If you had been here when I fitted it I couldn't find ones that fitted perfectly, so I used some slightly larger rubber bushes with a taper on one end and with a bit of lanoline applied they seemed to squeeze nicely into the countersink I drilled on the inside of the nylon pad. I'm pretty sure you'll not have any prob's with it leaking now."

PPS From Peter
"It doesn't matter Pam but I was trying to explain (not very well obviously) that between that black pad and the stem there is a rubber bush (instead of an O-Ring) that has a 45 degree end to it. I have drilled a good big countersink into the back of the black pad where the shafts of the D-bolt or U-bolt (or whatever you like to call it) pokes through it. I then slipped the two bushes onto the u-bolt with a bit of lanolin on it and the 45 degree end facing forward into the countersink so that as I tightened the nuts on the u-bolt it squeezed the rubber hard into the 45 degree hole thus compressing it around the bolt very tightly. I had to take it out and redo the countersink a bit deeper as there was a little too much squeeze the first time. So there you have it fully explained (I hope).

I think that proves my point - these seemingly simple jobs never are. Pam


13 November 2010

Wooden spoon to joint third - Part 2

13 November 2010 - Bridge to Breakers Regatta

"The Sunday format consisted of two races. The lighter conditions during the morning race gave way to a marked freshening after lunch and the afternoon race featured some spectacular displays of high speed sailing as winds gusted above 20 knots. The catamarans and skiffs particularly reveled in the conditions despite the fact that some of the rides were interrupted by the occasional capsizes." [extract from the BRSC press release]

Noela couldn't stay for Sunday and another of my ocean swimming friends, Neil McKenzie, was keen to crew. Neil has a sailing background, most recently in windsurfers, but it was the first time we had sailed together.




The morning race consisted of 2 rounds of a fairly short course and we sailed a round each. Although we came in, as usual, close to the tail end were pretty happy that we had given it a fair shot. Neil was really getting back into the swing of racing and kept wondering if he should buy an NS14. Yes I know that I own a plodder and we just couldn't get her to point high enough. I still prefer cruising and giving novices the chance to give it a go on a very forgiving Little Dragon, but I know that racing will improve my sailing skills.


As the forecast for the afternoon races was over 20 knots we decided to reef. We motored into the middle of the river and anchored to put in the reef. Knowing that the luff of the main was not taut on Saturday we did our best to get it taut this time - but our best was not good enough. After the race John Woods came to see for himself how we were reefed and demonstrated that neither the luff nor the out haul on the boom were tight enough. If we had the sails setting better we might have been able to point higher.

The afternoon course was 3 rounds of the morning course. This time we got a pretty good start and initially we were right up there with the others in Division 7. It was quite dispiriting to watch them pull ahead. In the increasing wind we just couldn't point as high as they were. We retired after completing 2 rounds as everyone else had finished all 3 rounds and it was time for the prize giving.


We were a bit disappointed that the BRSC doesn't give a wooden spoon prize as we thought we would win it. To my amazement the race officer did some calculations with the handicaps and we found ourselves joint third out of the 7 in our division. A complete mystery to me but rather good to be able to boast to my ocean swimming mates "we came joint third".

Thanks to Russell Witt for taking the photos of Little Dragon under way. His images of all the competitors can be viewed at http://photos.dragmania.com.au/thumbnails.php?album=119

Thanks also to all the BRSC members who worked so hard to make this yet again a great regatta.

Sunrise at Harwood on Monday 14 November. So still and quiet. Hard to remember the well over 20 knot gusts the day before and to predict that Monday afternoon would be even wilder.

12 November 2010

"Work the main!" - Part 1

12 November 2010 Bridge to Breakers regatta

"A fleet of 56 boats descended on the Big River Sailing Club last weekend to contest the annual Bridge to Breakers regatta. The event continues to be well patronised by regular visitors who travel from all parts of New South Wales and South East Queensland and this year attracted an entrant from Victoria... The fresh north to north east breeze tested competitors on the Saturday when boats made the grueling trek downriver from the Harwood Bridge to Iluka and return. By race end most boats had been on the water for three to four hours and it was a generally weary bunch of sailors that gathered on the Saturday night to rehydrate and recount the day's adventures." [extract from the BRSC press release]

A year ago I decided that it was time to stop being a total race refusenik. I got the additional insurance and chose sail number 98 (my birthday is the 9th August and I can do with help from all quarters. 9 and 8 are lucky numbers in Chinese cosmology).  Last February Noela Yates and I tried our luck at racing was in Grafton and that time there was hardly any wind. Despite that we had fun and decided to give it a go again but this time was quite different, there was more than enough wind. We reefed.   The "grueling trek" in the official account was almost 20 kms head to wind  down river against a strong tide. Soon all the off the beach classes that started 5 mins after us overtook us and the fast catamarans were our of sight way ahead. Our handicap shows that near the tail end is our rightful place.


John Woods, the BRSC training officer, was in the rescue boat keeping a watchful eye on the tail enders. He kept zooming up to us and yelling "Work the Main, Don't Cleat It!" Noela and I were taking turn and turn about tacking downstream.  We both knew the theory of easing off on a gust and sheeting in between gusts but the reality was that whichever of us had the main sheet felt as if our arms were being pulled out of their sockets. We just didn't have the strength not to "cleat it" some of the time. John also pointed out that the luff of our mainsail was not taut. Our sails should be as flat as possible in strong winds. I am still learning how to achieve that when the boat is reefed. 

 


It took us over 4 hours to reach the Goodwood mark which is around two thirds of the way to Iluka. We were quite relieved when the committee boat ordered us to shorten course. We were enjoying ourselves (at least in retrospect) but getting very weary. We fairly whooshed back to the finish line in less than 30 mins with wind and tide behind us, really exhilarating.

Luckily before I took to the water with this bunch of experienced and serious racers I had been practicing the excellent on line racing rules quiz  http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm I felt reasonably confident that I knew who had mark room at a buoy although my intention was to keep out of every one's way all the time. The photo below shows us in the middle of the fleet with boats heading every which way.


We were still tacking downstream and the fast cats were returning on a spinnaker run for the second time. Justin Forrester, who skippered the winning fast cat Stingray, approached us like a bat out of hell. We just didn't see him and we tacked right into his path. We were just stunned and he somehow had the skill to swerve round us. We were 100% in the wrong. I know we should have done 2 penalty turns but I confess I didn't. After 4 hours at the tail end of the fleet in what I felt was more than a mere "breeze" it just seemed too much. However I did seek him out ashore and offer him a beer. He was very gracious and declined but he did remember the incident with the "THAT red mono hull". I will also remember the incident for a long while.

This photo shows most of the 7 "slower trailer sailors" in Division 7 stern anchored on Saturday night.

29 October 2010

Pam goes solo




My maiden single handed voyage. 29 October I went from Harwood to Iluka on the ebb tide. Overnight in the harbour at Iluka and then back again the next morning on the flood tide. I hadn't intended to go solo, in fact I have always said "no way!" but my crew Jill Trevillian got a touch of flue and no-one else was available to sail on the Friday. So the germ of an idea developed "let's give it a go".

The forecast was favourable. Reasonably light airs SE to NE. In fact at times there was more wind than forecast. The observations at Yamba show 11 - 12 knots SE at 2 pm on Friday and 9 - 13 knots N at 10 am on Saturday morning. However my concern was not the sailing so much as the launching and anchoring.

When I say single handed that is true while I was underway but Dick, the caretaker of the Big River Sailing Club, did help me launch and held the boat while I got aboard to sail away. I was proud that I managed to get the mast up on my own using the technique that Peter had suggested some time ago. I also got help from a club member to winch Little Dragon back on the trailer on my return.

In some ways I quite enjoyed tacking down the Clarence River on my own. Without a crew to chat with/train I was more aware of the surroundings, the light on the water (see photo of the early morning in the harbour). But I don't think I want to do it often and certainly not with much more wind or where I need to check a chart while underway. Not enough hands. Little Dragon is not set up for single handed sailing and I kept my hand on the tiller throughout - it takes around 3 hrs each way. I thought I had been smart and put my water bottle in the cockpit before we left but I didn't screw the cap on properly and it all spilt. It seemed impossible to go below and refill it so I just stayed thirsty. On my return I drank too much coffee before I left. Easier for men. Red bucket gymnastics. Enough information. If I was going to do more single handed sailing - which I don't plan - I need to sort out a way of securing the tiller at least briefly.

I decided to motor through the narrow entrance into Iluka Harbour (see photo) and managed to get the engine on and sails down OK. Once into the harbour I had to anchor. I expect there is an approved way of doing it single handed. I just motored to the spot I decided to drop making sure that there was heaps of space to fall back without hitting anything. Went into neutral. Went forward and dropped the anchor then went back to the cockpit. It worked like a dream but it helped that there was little wind or current and plenty of space.

On the return trip I was saddened to see that the offensive sign on the southern bank of the Clarence River about half way between Yamba  and Harwood is still there "Private Property, trespasssers will be shot",  presumably if they dare to enter the cane field.

I have decided to wear a life jacket when single handed (see photo). No, pink is not an approved colour for a type 1 life jacket, but I am wearing an approved type 1 life jacket. Work it out for yourself.









19 October 2010

Little Dragon enjoys a stiff breeze - Part 2

18-21 Oct 2010 -
Straddie trip Part 2.

I had checked the weather forecast carefully before we left home. On Monday the wind dropped away completely in late afternoon, wrecking our plan to sail all the way to The Bedroom, despite a forecast of 12 knots at 3 pm.

Tuesday was forecast to be 4 knots at 9 am but it dropped to a dead calm and again we had to motor a while to get round Jumpinpin and into Canaipa Passage. We know that we should plan to go with the tide but it seems inevitable that we go against it for part of the day. We reached Slipping Sands anchorage in time for a leisurely lunch break.

After lunch the wind picked up from the forecast 12 knots to blow SE 16-19 knots. Little Dragon was in her element. I (and in retrospect I think Cathy will allow me to say "we") reveled in an exhilarating reach north up Canaipa Passage. I say in retrospect as at the time Cathy did make a few enquiries about how far we could heel before we tipped over. I assured her that the boat specs say it is self righting. I didn't add that I hoped never to test out that feature. This is when Peter managed to take all these fantastic photos. Thanks Pete, it must have been quite a feat for a single handed sailor.

Wednesday the wind was forecast at 4 knots at 9 am and 12 knots at 3 pm. The observations recorded 18 - 22 knots ESE at 3.30 pm. Luckily Cathy was still smiling. We sailed right round the top of Russell Island and Karragarra Island and then turned south into Main Channel en route to Rudy Maas Marina.

Cathy was doing sterling work keeping track of all the port and starboard markers and occasional cardinal mark in Beacon to Beacon. She correctly told me when we had rounded Karragarra Island and needed to turn south. Peter had missed a cardinal mark and kept straight on. I had to make a snap decision - Cathy or Peter? I followed Peter. We nearly ended up high and dry on a sand bank with the tide ebbing fast.

Once in Main Channel we could see an ominous black cloud approaching. I am glad I decided to play safe and drop the sail and motor. When the squall struck we were drenched in seconds and it was a complete white out for several minutes. I reckon that the wind was at least 25 knots at the height of the squall.

The squall didn't last long and we hoisted the sails again and soon dried out. I thought about putting a reef in but the wind had dropped considerably. We kept on down Main Channel and wondered where and when Peter was going to stop for lunch. He was ahead and the plan was for him to find a lunch spot. Peter's mobile was playing up and he has a 27 meg radio and I have VHF, so we couldn't communicate which was a bit of a nuisance. Eventually we found him nestled into a mudbank munching his sandwiches.

Posted by Picasa Finally a huge thank you to you Cathy. You readily admitted to me that you haven't had much prior experience and I said "no worries" anticipating quite easy conditions. The conditions turned out quite challenging and you really rose to the occasion. I try to give all my crew the opportunity to take the helm but that proved difficult except when we were motoring. You are welcome aboard any time and next time with a spot of luck you can take the helm.

Rafting up at Straddie - Part 1

18-21 Oct 2010
Straddie trip Part 1

Unlike the fiasco at Grafton (see last post) this trip was a great success.

Cathy Jones was my crew and we sailed in company with our "big brother" Peter Barnes in his Farr 6000. Peter it really is time your boat had a name.

Cathy and I launched at Rudy Maas Marina at Steiglitz. The owners are still resisting all offers from developers and it remains the antithesis to the Surfers Paradise glitz which is visible not far away.

We reached The Bedroom anchorage and campsite on South Stradbroke just on sunset. To get to The Bedroom we had to battle a strong flood tide and when the wind dropped we were forced to motor the last bit. It was fun rafting up with Peter's nameless boat.


The next morning we went ashore and Cathy was blown out finding that right over one sand dune was the ocean. Two ocean swimmers couldn't resist a quick dip and Cathy also indulged in a spot of yoga.

Our anchorage for night 2 was at Canaipa Point on Russell Island near the Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron. Peter anchored first and the plan was that I would raft up alongside. We got our sails down and headed back towards him under motor. Little Dragon developed a will of her own and veered off into the mangroves and we went aground. We got off the mud but found ourselves back on the mud several times. Cathy kept winding the keel up and down again. Eventually we managed to raft up and Peter, who had watched the entire pantomime, told me that I was steering on the boat tiller and the engine tiller was not centred. I won't forget that lesson.

When Cathy and I went ashore in the early morning a rather posh RQYS caretaker informed us that we couldn't use their facilities - not even their toilets. We hadn't even asked but I suspect that the little trowel I was carrying gave the game away. I tried to claim reciprocal rights as a member of the Big River Sailing Club but that didn't cut any ice at all.

Posted by PicasaThe last photo shows mangroves only about 25 metres from where we were anchored near the RQYS. While I was cooking dinner in the cockpit a swarm of sand flies attacked me and I ended up taking anti-histamine tablets for days.

We spent our third and last night anchored in Main Channel not far from Rudy Maas Marina ready to pack up the following morning.

I reckon that it must be a first - a 3 day cruise and no breakages to report.

03 October 2010

Clarence River Classic Yacht Cruise 2010


Sunday 3 October 2010

Jill Trevillian and I had signed up for the Clarence River Yacht Club's annual classic cruise [pub crawl] from Grafton to Iluka. So much preparation, such anticipation but we never even launched...

On Sunday 3 October the forecast for Grafton was for 20 - 40 mm rain and not much wind. It was due to improve on Monday with 5 - 10 mm rain and still not much wind then fine up by Tuesday. By the time we reached Grafton mid-afternoon on Sunday the sky looked very black. We rigged as quickly as possible in the car park adjacent to the boat ramp. I wanted to get the red awning up over the boom so we would stay dry in the cabin. Then the rain pelted down so we hot footed it up to the Scout Hall about 100 metres away which is now the CRYC HQ. We learnt that a severe weather forecast was issued mid-afternoon. There was over 200 mm (8 inches) rain that night.

Thank goodness for the Scout Hall which provided a dry, welcoming haven for the 40 or so would be sailors. Even though we slept snug and dry in Little Dragon in the car park the joke started to wear off when the deluge continued the next morning.

Not surprisingly the cruise was postponed on the Monday. The plan had been to sail and/or motor to Ulmarra for lunch then on to Brushgrove for dinner and overnight. The next day it was due to be Lawrence for lunch and Maclean for dinner and overnight. Then it was on to Iluka with the Pacific Highway bridge at Harwood being raised for us to pass through as a group. After a couple of days around Iluka and Yamba the competitive ones intended to race back from Maclean to Grafton; but we hadn't entered the race and planned to end at Iluka where Jill had left her car.

Monday evening it was still raining. We ate pizzas in the Scout Hall and and then waded down the very boggy track to spend another night on Little Dragon in the car park. We hardly got a blink of sleep as not only did we get another dump of around 200 mm of rain but it also blew so hard that Little Dragon kept bouncing around quite alarmingly on the trailer.

Next morning the weather was a little better although we learnt that Pacific Highway was still cut both north and south of Grafton. Some valiant yachties decided to start the cruise and headed off down the raging Clarence River. The rest of us decided to pack up and trail our boats home when it became feasible. Luckily the Pacific Highway reopened to the north and we managed to get to Iluka to retrieve Jill's car. We feared it would be flooded but luckily it wasn't. The estuary at Iluka was so wild that we were quite confident that we had made the right decision to pull out of the event and try again next year.



10 September 2010

BOAT = Bring Out Another Thousand

When I returned from Fiji I turned my attention to getting Little Dragon ready for the new season. I had the outboard serviced and took the trailer to have the bearings checked. I was told that I needed a whole brake system. That is where the BOAT comes in. They turned out to be more expensive than my new mainsail and far less fun.

I put in a few hours hard yakka giving Little Dragon a general spruce up. Thanks are due to Savaad who dropped round and tightened the nuts on all the deck fittings - a task that could only be done by someone able to crawl into a very small space. Then I reckoned I was ready for a new sailing season. But I hadn't counted on a series of "happenings" on my season-opening sail at Harwood. My sincere thanks to both Peter Barnes (who never charges) and my insurance company APIA - without whom I would certainly have had to shell out more thousands.

When I was towing Little Dragon down the Pacific Highway to Harwood I felt her start to wobble. It turned out that the starboard skid had broken off. It is hard to see how it happened but it did. Luckily no serious damage to the boat. One can't just go and buy a new skid. It has to be custom made out of hardwood, covered in carpet and fixed in place with the correct brackets. Peter you are a saint!

Peter then decided that while he was working on my trailer he should even up my rollers, some of which needed raising or lowering. More effort.

That led onto my jockey wheel. I hate my jockey wheel and it urgently needs replacement. Peter said "no worries, easy". He suggested I purchase an Ezi-Walker model. I was delighted to find one in a Father's Day sale. I should have known. It is never easy. Peter put it on and it was seriously defective so off it came. Next I purchased a 10" swing leg jockey wheel to replace my old 6" one. Peter had to fabricate little plastic blocks as the U bolts didn't quite fit my trailer. Job done, but no - the new jockey wheel wouldn't go low enough to fit onto my tow ball. So Peter had to put the old one back on again while I work out what to do. I have tried to buy a Hayman Reese adjustable height tow tongue (I am learning new jargon all the time) on E Bay but now find that they are only made with 5o mm shanks and I only have a 40 mm one. Still thinking...

Next Peter almost dismantled my outboard engine. The problem was that despite the recent service it wouldn't lock down when in neutral. Unfortunately even Peter was defeated - it seems to be a flaw in my the design of my 5 hp 2 stroke Mercury.

In the meantime I have been going through the tiresome process of an insurance claim for the vital repairs to the hull. Now the boat is with the shipwright and just the repainting remains to be done. The shipwright has just rung to say that 2 pack is no longer made in Fire Red but only in Rochelle and heaven alone knows what colour that is...

Perhaps I should own up to the last minor drama on my season-opening sail. I got the forestay caught beneath the mast base and it was seriously kinked when I lifted the mast. OK - a bit of new stainless wire is quite cheap but I drove all the way to Ballina (28 km away) and found the Bolt Barn closed for some damn annual horse race. I returned the next day. They were open but said they hadn't got and wouldn't order the Ronstan toggle ends. The nearest place to buy them is Whitworths which is in Southport one and a half hours drive away. I have organised for these little bits to be mailed to me then it will be back to Ballina to have them swaged on.

Rob has pointed out to me that I really should cover the battery terminals to prevent a possible accident. When I was on Intention in Fiji Jim showed me neat little plastic terminal covers specially designed for that job which he buys in the USA. More internet research and I managed to track some down at Ballina Bearings. But (quite predictably) they are designed to fit round terminal leads that are different to mine. Maybe it can be modified. Thinking...

Next week I plan to replace my 27 meg radio with a VHF one. Another "simple job" - well may be...

I wish that Byron Bay had a chandlers, but I knew when I moved here that it is a surfing not yachting centre.

It would be far better if I had trained as a fitter and turner like Peter. My legal training is of no use at all. He can do almost everything himself in his well equipped workshop.


29 August 2010

Andi and Jessie make it at last


29th August
Andi Davey (in orange) and I have known each other for many years, from when we both lived in Alice Springs. I never dreamed that one day we would sail together on the Clarence River. A 4WD camping trip was more likely. Andi's partner Jessie Blackadder (in blue) grew up sailing with her father on his 26ft yacht, so she has some salt water in her veins. It has taken a while to organise a date that suited us all and didn't blow a gale.

I went down to the Big River Sailing Club on the Saturday for the AGM and chatting to members about the season ahead. Then I rigged and launched Little Dragon. I enjoy the quiet of the river in the evening and early morning. So it was no hardship to sleep aboard stern anchored to the bank. I was ready for Andi and Jessie to step aboard when they arrived on Sunday morning.

It was an absolutely gorgeous morning, sunny and one of those days that were not too hot but not too cool. A shame we don't get more of them. There was a "just right" sailing breeze, probably around 8 knots mainly SE but it did shift around a fair bit.

We all took turns tacking and gybing, sailing close hauled, reaching and on the run up to the bridge and back. We put Little Dragon through her season-opening paces. Andi had never handled a tiller before but proved to be a natural. After a while we anchored and enjoyed a picnic lunch. A thoroughly enjoyable sail. Thanks Andi and Jessie for coming and helping with the pack-up.

All went well until I was almost back at the Harwood ramp. I was approaching on an angle almost parallel to the bank very close to the Harwood Slipway. Jessie was on the foredeck ready to jump ashore. She suddenly started yelling and indicating that I should turn out into the river NOW! She had seen a submerged post that I later learnt was a remnant of an old jetty. I almost missed it but not quite. Oh dear, although the damage looked minor it turned out to be a crack right through the fibreglass hull just below the waterline. Another insurance claim...

31 July 2010

Pam joins Jim on Intention in Fiji while Little Dragon shivers in Byron Bay




Jim Marco (photo 1) made an offer too good to refuse - an opportunity for Nicky Greenlaw, Lee Fenten and me to escape the Australian winter and join him again on his yacht Intention (see photo 2). This trio had thoroughly enjoyed sailing with him 3 year's ago in Vanuatu.

Jim has continued to spend most of his time cruising the Pacific on Intention interspersed with visits to his family in California. At present he is based at Savusavu in Fiji where he given the engine a major refit assisted by Bogi, a Fijian (photos 1 and 3). Jim has been joined aboard by Alice and he  is clearly enjoying the company of his new companion.

We arrived on 4 July but Nicky and Lee could only stay for a couple of weeks but I stayed a month. After they left my friend Rae Wills flew over to join us for the rest of my stay. At times it was pretty tight quarters aboard when Jim, Alice, Bogi, Nicky, Lee and Pam were all aboard.

This is Little Dragon's (b)log not Intention's blog: http://sailvalis.com/wordpress/ Intention's blog has heaps of photos and much more information. I haven't learnt how to put more than 4 photos up on one post.

Savusavu and Musket Cove are Fiji's major ports for cruising yachts, but Savusavu, unlike Musket Cove, is a small town that has escaped the ravages of mass tourism. Despite that it does provide some of the little luxuries that I crave - notably excellent cappuccino at the Copra Shed Yacht Club. It is a picturesque anchorage and the first photo shows the view from Intention at what is grandly called "Savusavu Marina" - it consists of 1 pontoon and two yachts but has grand plans.

Nicky, Lee and I spent some of the time based at Savusavu Marina enjoying swimming off the pontoon, exploring, relaxing and provisioning Intention for cruising. Then the 6 of us headed off  with the destination being Bogi's Village at Buca Bay. The first overnight stop was anchored off Cousteau's Resort where we snorkeled at Split Rock. The next day turned windy and wet (photo 3 of Nicky, Lee and Bogi).  Luckily for the rest of this trip the weather was far kinder.

"Ratu" is the all-powerful Chief of each Fijian village and Bogi is the younger son of the Ratu of Buca Bay Village. We arrived at the village bearing a customary gift of kava and he gave us all a ceremonial welcome followed by permission to visit and anchor in his waters. After the ceremony Ratu and his family cooked us a traditional feast while we all headed to the local school where teachers' Nicky and Lee addressed several classes. We took with us a gift of  childrens' books from Australia but found this school far better equipped than those we had seen in Vanuatu.

We enjoyed village hospitality for a couple of days, especially the swim down the freshwater river. Sadly it was time for Nicky and Lee to leave but not before they were serenaded by villagers. Bogi had arranged for the group to came aboard on their last evening to sing  traditional Fijian farewell songs.

The best laid plans can go astray when the crew goes down with a serious dose of the runs (village water the prime suspect). As Alice and I had taken to our bunks Jim abandoned the planned cruise round Taveuni Island and we returned to Savusavu where antibiotics fixed us all up within a day.

A few days later Rae arrived and the weather turned wet and windy again and stayed that way pretty much until we left. Photo 4 shows Rae chatting to local school girls who came to check us out. The furthest she got under sail was to Cousteau's but never mind - the snorkeling was great. We attempted to sail out to Namena Marine Park (http://www.namena.org/about-2/) but it was blowing well over 25 knots and just too getting too rough for fun so we turned back.

Thanks Jim, Alice and Bogi for everything. I hesitate to say that I was "crewing" although we were all technically "find a crew". With Bogi aboard ,who insisted on it being a man's role to do all the heavy work, I felt much more like a guest than a crew. I wish you fair winds and great cruising in Fiji.




I

21 March 2010

Supporting Team Sheelas

Sunday 21 March started with the proud owners trying to look nonchalant while frantically making last minute adjustments to their craft. I was particularly interested in Stan's tin canoe. It was named "Noelzie" after his disabled wife. His Tshirt did not lie when it stated boldly "Big Dude". If Stan can fit into a tin canoe then maybe I can as well, well maybe... 
This is Rob Crosby's tin canoe Odd Job, a very different design.
The canoes lined up on the beach ready for the start. There was very little wind for race 1. Cathy and I had to leave before the later races to catch the tide back to Harwood and the wind didn't come up come up until well after we left. When we returned early evening for the prize giving we were regaled with tall tales of numerous capsizes and rescues. A special trophy was given  to a rescuer (who shall remain anonymous) who threw a line to Stan who was heading for the rocks but forgot to secure the line to the rescue boat. Luckily all's well that ends well.
The Commodore gave a course briefing and and then got  the skippers to line up ready for a running start when the canon was fired.
Race 1 underway. Cathy and I were cheering on the Sheelas who won (I don't think we helped). They were ecstatic as it was their first ever win. The rules permit a maximum of 2 paddles per canoe and both paddling and sailing are allowed. A trophy is awarded for the best paddler but I seem to remember that a trophy was also awarded for the crew that did the most sailing v paddling.
The Big Dude again. Stan is a woodworker who claims not to have much sailing experience, despite that he came second in each of the four races and carried off the main trophy.

I am still dreaming .... Shame I don't have any tin canoe building skills...  I wonder if the 10 teams that competed this year would countenance 11 teams next year?

 I haven't enjoyed myself so much for years as I did at this crazy, quirky  regatta. Thanks again Jill for inviting us.
The finish line is a tree with Will Banks photo (photo 7). Each team have to hug Will, who is clearly greatly missed by everyone. A trophy is awarded for the best hugging.

20 March 2010

The International Tin Canoe Regatta

20th March 2010. I learnt later that  the International Tin Canoe Regatta is always held close to the Ides of March. I was thrilled that Jill Trevillion had invited me to the 8th regatta to support "Team Sheelas". In a strange way it felt quite appropriate as when Cathy Jones, Nicky Greenlaws, Lee Fenton and I launched Little Dragon we were immediately dubbed "The Four Shielas!" (see blog 12 April 08).

My plan was to launch Little Dragon at Harwood and sail down the river to Iluka with Cathy as crew, after all Cathy was one of the original Shielas as well as a friend of Jill Trevillian. We are all Stingray Ocean Swimmers - another informal, unincorporated and uninsured group of which we are proudly "Non Members" as stated on our Tshirts. Unfortunately there was very little wind at all for ages and the occasional puff was easterly meaning that we had to tack all the way (with a bit of motoring) when it died away completely). Eventually we reached Iluka and anchored for the night near the Tin Canoe Club House. We had to leave again the following day before noon to catch the end of the flood tide back to Harwood.
The regatta is held in the picture perfect setting of Iluka Harbour. It is amazing that this private event has been able to continue under the radar of officialdom, sponsorship, tourist event calenders etc. The participants certainly do not adhere to the neo-liberal growth paradigm. At the prize giving there was an award for "maintaining the tradition". I hope that in years to come this gathering of friends/sailors/tin canoe builders will be allowed to continue to "maintain the tradition". So please readers of my blog - don't spread the word! As a child in England I grew up sailing with my parents at the local yacht club (that I will not name). By the time I was a teenager I rejected its overt sexism, snobbishness and anti-Sematism but I still enjoyed sailing. The "traditions" of this event were the antithesis of all that I had rejected so many years ago.

I witnessed one of the "traditions" at the Saturday night BBQ. With great ceremony I was given the task of unscrewing the base of the main trophy (a galleon that had to be a spoof on mainstream yachting trophies). Inside was the only only copy of The Rules. The Commodore read The Rules out to the assembled company and then they were screwed back into the trophy for another year. I don't remember many of The Rules as I was laughing too much and had drunk two glasses of wine. One rule was no protests which seemed to be contradicted by the rule that any disputes had to be presented by a dog on a specific date which I don't think exists.

Jill Trevillion is proudly posing in front of Team Sheelas splendid tin canoe. Jill and her partner Will Banks were two of the founding group and Jill has sailed in all 8 regattas. Sadly, her partner Will died in a tragic accident 4 years ago.
Jill was handing David a life jacket for his practice sail. David was going to become Daveena, Team Sheelas skipper, for the races the following day. I was a bit sad to yet again find that there are so few women sailors willing and able to be skippers. If you look carefully you can see Little Dragon anchored on the left.
There were 4 members of Team Sheela, from left to right Lucille, Victoria, Daveena and Jill.
I couldn't resist a close up of Team Shielas tin canoe. The only design rule for the canoes is that they must be made our of one sheet of roofing iron. As far as I could see most of them now had more wood and bamboo than iron. Part of the ethos of the event is that the canoes should be affordable. The original tin canoes only cost around $50 and had features such as an old shower curtain for a jib. Now they are more sophisticated and some have "real" sails and rigging, but there is a trophy awarded to the canoe with the greatest ratio of tin to wood.